Grainline Morris in stretch velvet

When I started sewing last year, I knew it wouldn’t be long before I got into the shiny and silky fabrics. As described in my sewing story, my first clothing crush was with a shiny turquoise jacket. So it’s fitting when I bought my first yardage of stretch velvet a few weeks ago that my thoughts were on making a jacket. And make a jacket/blazer I did: Roller disco here I come!

dancy

front1

Of course I had to take pictures of the blazer with my Vespa, because they’re both so shiny and pastel!

vespa2

vespa_sleeve

This jacket is the missing piece of the module I’m creating for the Instagram challenge #TheGreatModuleSewalong, hosted by Whitney from TomKat Stitchery and Carla from Stay Stitching. A module consists of three tops, two bottoms and one topper. This silky wonder is my topper.

I cut the pattern pieces at a size 18, wanting a little extra room to wear bulky tops underneath. Sadly, an 18 would not fit on my two yards of fabric so I trimmed all the pieces down to 16. I had also wanted to lengthen the sleeves but that too wasn’t happening. I barely fit all the size 16 pieces on two yards. Not to worry: It ended up fitting fine.

front

back1

The pattern instructions were very clear. There is also a detailed sewalong I would turn to when I had looked at the instructions too long. The pattern is for Advanced Beginners and I would agree.

I had prepared for a really rough ride with this stretch velvet and read all of these thouroughly before starting:

These were helpful for sure, but it turned out this was one of the easiest makes I’ve done yet. Mostly due to the fact that I just serged every seam that would fit under the serger. I used an off-white serger thread and I was very happy with the antique look it made on the dusty pink.

seams

A big, big thanks to Joey Sewy who happened to post a video of her Morris blazer the day I was making mine. I never would have thought of using a decorative stitch for topstitching the lapels, but when I saw it on her blazer I had to copy it.

joey_morris

I consulted my Singer manual and found the triple zig-zag. I absolutely loved it! Added bonus: it gives the impression of piping in the lapel, without having to do any piping.

lapels

I veered from the instructions a couple times. Firstly, I didn’t want a line of stitching on the hem so I decided to do a blind hem. It was fiddly to do but turned out nice. Not so invisible, but it has a wavy look that matches the lapels.

blind_hem

Secondly, the instructions called for turning the whole sleeve facing inside the sleeve and topstitching. I thought the facing looked so good as a little cuff that I just serged the edge, turned it under a tiny bit and edge-stitched.

sleeve

Only twice did a get a bit stumped.  Firstly, the instructions call for interfacing all the facings. What I’d read about velvet had the following instructions about interfacing it: Don’t. Or if you must, use a sew-in interfacing.  I just happened to have some sew-in interfacing that my mom gave me from my nana’s stash. Sewing this onto the facings with a basting stitch worked for all but the lapel pieces. Those were just too big and a stitch around the edge wasn’t enough to keep the interfacing in place, so I skipped it on those pieces.

sewin_interfacing

I would jump at the chance to work with stretch velvet again. It was a lot of fun and looks amazing! I would also make this blazer again. A thick knit fabric such as ponte de roma in olive green would be sublime. Stay tuned. -rp

 

2 thoughts on “Grainline Morris in stretch velvet

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